Growing tomatoes

Growing tomatoes

Introduction

Tomatoes are tender annual plants in most regions, but are classed as short lived perennials in the tropics. The ripe fruit colour may be anything from red and orange right through to white and green ones. In shape they range from tiny currant sized fruit up to the giant beefsteak variety. Tomatoes grow best at a temperature of 21 - 24C (70 - 75F). They will not grow well if kept above 27C (81F) or below 16C (61F). They will not tolerate frost. Tomatoes also require a high light intensity.

Sowing the Seed

The seed is quite easy to handle, so it can be spaced out and covered with about 1.5mm (1/16in) of compost. The seedlings generally germinate in about 7 to 14 days at a temperature of around 21C (70F). For the best sowing times, see the recommendations in 'greenhouse' or 'outdoor' cultivation below. Pot on when large enough to handle without touching the stem. Just handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 7.5cm (3in) pots. If only a few plants are required sow two seeds into a 7.5cm (3in) pot and after germination remove the smaller plant. Take care not to let the plant and seedlings get cold. Frost, cold winds and draughts will cause the plants to turn blue and in most cases die. If you live in a cold area wait a few weeks extra until the air temperature has risen a bit more. Check the compost at all stages for dryness. This is vital in the germination stages as drought can cause poor germination or failure to germinate at all. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill seedlings, as it can spread "damping off fungi" and encourage other moulds and diseases.

Greenhouse Cultivation

For greenhouse tomatoes first pick a recommended variety such as 'Santa', 'Matador', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Supersteak'. Sow as directed on the individual seed packet. This is generally from late December/early January onwards and in 7.5cm (3in) pots.

Plant the young plants when they are about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open. If you are planting into your greenhouse border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. If you have used the border before for tomatoes, it is better to change the soil or sterilise it before using it for tomatoes again. This will help avoid soil pests and root diseases becoming a problem. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more then two plants per bag.

Outdoor Cultivation

For growing tomatoes outside, first pick a recommended variety such as 'Gardeners Delight', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Sweet 100' or try 'Tumbler' in a flower pouch or hanging basket.

Wait until approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost is forecast and sow as directed on the individual seed packet in 7.5cm (3in) pots.

When all risk of frost has past and when the plants are about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open, you can plant them out. If you are planting into your border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18 in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more than two plants per bag

Training Plants

How to train or when to pick your fruit will depend on the varieties and types of tomatoes grown. Cordon (indeterminate) varieties will need side shooting, determinate varieties may stop flower production after several trusses, but upward growth can be carried on by training up the topmost side shoot. Bush varieties remain low and need no side shoot removal. See individual seed packets for further information. Tomatoes require a lot of water and feed to get the best fruit. Water little and often for the best results. Feed with a general liquid feed until the first truss is formed then alternate with a high potash feed. This will encourage more flowers and fruit.

Pests and Diseases

Most tomato fruit problems are caused by irregular watering. 'Blossom End Rot' (dark patch at the base of the fruit, more common if the plant is grown in a growbag), 'Blossom Drop' (flower bud falls off), 'Dry Set' (fruitlet growth stops when the fruit is the size of a match-head), and 'Fruit Splitting'. The key is to give the plant an even, regular amount of water. Try also to water around the base of the plants, misting the flowers will also help to increase the humidity and give better pollination results. Too much water too late tends to be the problem in most cases, especially with plants grown in pots and growbags.

Other problems tend to be caused by too much direct sunlight. This can be more of a problem. Tomatoes have to have lots of sun to grow well, but to much can cause blotches, scalds or spots on the developing fruit, even the dreaded 'Greenback' is caused by too much sunlight. If this is a problem increase the 'potash' in the plants' feeding regime and use fleece or shading as a cover in the hottest part of the day.

As with most plants look out for green and white fly, both can spread viruses. Spray with are recommended proprietary spray as soon as any pest is noticed. Seed cannot carry viruses: mottling, leaf distortion and stunted plant growth will be caused by sap sucking pests. They can spread viruses so keep an eye for them.

If leaf yellowing starts on the older leaves and moves upwards it may not be a virus but a deficiency of magnesium. It is common, but general feeding will not help. Use a multi tonic or special magnesium feed if required.

If you believe your tomatoes do have a virus, the plant or plants must be removed and destroyed. Avoid handling other tomatoes, or using the same tools on your tomatoes until you and the tools have been thoroughly washed.

Tips on Growing Hanging Baskets

Hanging Baskets
Hanging baskets add a whole new dimension to gardening, helping to utilise all the available space. With hanging baskets you can not only brighten up a sunny wall, but with the right choice of plants, use them to brighten up shady areas, for porches, conservatories and even provide fresh herbs through the winter with an indoor basket next to a sunny window.

There are several different types of basket available, from the old favourite wire mesh type, which is almost indestructible, to solid plastic types which are almost like a large pot. Wire types can be planted through the sides and bottom to give a floral ball effect, whereas solid plastic ones hold water for much longer and you don't need to line them.

When planting your basket, first make sure the young plants or seedlings are at the correct stage. They should be sturdy well rooted and at the stage for transplanting.

Planting the Basket
If using a mesh basket, you will need some form of liner to prevent the soil falling out. This could be plastic film, an artificial liner or moss. Moss ensures excellent drainage and high humidity both of which help the plants to grow well, but you will need to water more often than with the other liners which are easier to use, although you will usually have to punch holes in them to insert the plants.

The plastic pot type baskets can only be planted at the top and it's a simple procedure to fill with compost and put in the plants, remembering to leave space at the top for watering.

With wire baskets, when using moss, line the bottom of the basket with a layer of moss about 1in thick and build the moss up to about halfway up the sides. Then fill the centre with a moist, good, free draining soilless compost, preferably one specially prepared for hanging baskets. Alternatively you can make up your own by adding 20% Perlite to a standard soilless potting compost, plus a wetting agent, water retention agent and a slow release fertiliser. These will ensure that the water is distributed evenly, that it is held for as long as possible and that the plants are fed through the season.

Insert the first layer of plants by carefully pushing the leaves through the mesh, pack plenty of moss around the plants and fill up the centre with compost, gently firming round the roots as you go. Make sure you leave a space large enough to take the roots of the plant which is to go in the centre and build up the outer layer of moss as you go.

Before planting the top, first arrange the plants to their best effect and then plant firmly, making a slight dip in the centre to prevent run-off when watering. If possible, finish off the top with a layer of moss to improve the look of the basket and conserve water.

Provided you are using a good compost and you are prepared to feed and water regularly, you will find the best effect comes from putting plenty of plants in the basket. With bedding plants it is a good rule of thumb to put in at least one plant per inch of basket diameter, that is 12 plants for a 12 inch basket. However if you are using only strongly growing plants such as Fuchsias or Geraniums, then it's better to restrict it to 5 per 12 inch basket.

Once planted, give the basket a good watering with a watering can with a rose on to settle the soil around the roots and stand it in a greenhouse for 2-3 weeks. If no greenhouse is available, then place in a cold frame, or failing this, outside in a shady, sheltered spot and bring it indoors each evening. During this period, turn the baskets each day to ensure even growth, dead head the flowers as they fade and pinch out the growing points of any long, straggly plants to ensure bushy plants.

Moving Outdoors
When the plants are well established the weather is mild and warm, with all risk of frost having passed, the baskets can be hung in their final position. Use a suitably strong bracket, a 9in bracket is suitable for a 12in basket, and secure firmly. A sunny wall which doesn't get too hot, facing S.E. or S.W. is best but avoid a windy spot. Unless you have used shade loving plants, the basket should be in the sun for most of the day. Keep the compost moist but not water logged by frequent watering, usually once a day in hot weather. Water in the evening for preference. You can tell whether a basket needs watering by testing with your fingers whether the top half an inch of soil is dry. If the surface only is dry then leave for another day. When you water, water well, roughly giving about half a gallon to each basket. It is essential the compost is neither too wet nor too dry as some plants, like lobelia for example, never recover from drying out.

From mid June onwards it's usually necessary to feed with a good liquid fertiliser once a week, or you can give a weekly feed of a high potash fertiliser to encourage flower production. Replace once a month with a high Nitrogen feed to prevent the foliage going yellow. Finally dead head the plants regularly, particularly Mimulus Geraniums, Nasturtiums, and similar, to ensure a succession of flowers.

Baskets for Vegetables and Herbs
These need a little more attention but can be both attractive and productive. They must never be allowed to dry out and for this reason wire baskets are best lined with polythene. Suitable subjects are Bush Cucumbers, Chilli Peppers, Lettuce Salad Bowl, Parsley and Tomatoes and Herbs like Basil, Sage, Chamomile, Chives, Marjoram, Sorrel and Thyme.

Vegetables need more space than bedding plants and a tomato such as Tumbler or a Pepper such as Redskin should be planted 3 per 14 inch basket, whereas with cucumbers, like Bush Champion, one plant per basket is sufficient. Feed weekly with a high Nitrogen feed, grow most of them in a sheltered spot, but provide a little shade for herbs and shade from strong sun for cucumbers.

Winter and Spring Baskets
Why not utilise your baskets to the full by planting up with winter flowering Pansies such as Floral Dance or Universal Mixed. Place in a sheltered spot, keep well watered and if the compost freezes solid stand indoors every 2-3 days to allow it to thaw out.
http://www.thompson-morgan.com

How to Garden

Whether you are new to gardening or have a wealth of experience, our handy ‘how to garden’ section is packed with articles and video guides, offering expert gardening advice, handy tips and garden inspiration.

How to grow potatoes in the ground

Preparing the site
When growing your own potatoes choose an open position in full sun on fertile, well drained soil. Avoid soil where potatoes have grown for two years in succession as this will increase the risk of disease. A slightly acidic soil is preferable but not essential as potatoes will tolerate a wide range of soils. When growing potatoes on more alkaline soils, apply sulphur to the top of the potato ridge after planting. Applying sulphur maximizes the yield and deters skin blemishes like Common Scab that are particularly troublesome in alkaline conditions.

Begin preparing the planting site well in advance (November/ December) to allow the soil to settle before planting potatoes. Remove all weeds and dig the site thoroughly and deeply, lifting out any large stones, and incorporating plenty of well rotted organic matter and high potash fertiliser.

Chitting Potatoes
Seed potatoes, particularly earlies and second earlies, benefit from 'chitting' prior to being planted. This process encourages strong shoots to sprout over several weeks to encourage faster growth and heavier crops once they in the ground. From late January/ February, ‘chit’ your seed potatoes by setting them out in seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons in a cool, bright, frost free position (10C/ 50F) to allow them to sprout. You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Sturdy 'chits' will form and should attain up to 25mm (1”) in length.

Planting
Planting times are largely dependent on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but the table below is a general guide. Dig a trench to a depth of about 10cm (4”) and place the seed potatoes into the trench with the rose end facing upwards. Fill the trench with soil to cover the potatoes. An application of potato fertiliser can be scattered


Aftercare
It is important to ‘earth up’ potato crops as the shoots emerge above ground, to protect them from frosts which blacken the shoots and delay production. Simply draw some soil over the top of the shoots to cover them again.

First early and second early crops particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form.

When the stems reach a height of 23cm (9”) above ground they should be earthed up again to prevent tubers near to the soil surface from turning green. Harvesting.

Lifting times will vary depending on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. However the table above provides a rough guide for each crop type. Start to harvest first earlies as 'new potatoes' when the plants begin to flower, approximately 10 weeks from planting. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period.

Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set. Cut down the stems with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither and yellow, or if they show signs of blight. After harvesting, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin. Once dry store them in paper or hessian sacks in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid storing in polythene bags as potatoes will 'sweat' and rot.

Second Cropping Potatoes
In the UK, second cropping potatoes are best planted outdoors in early August and no later than he end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so but must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting second cropping potatoes later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. There is no need to pre-chit the seed potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting.

'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to 11 weeks after planting. Cut back the stems to just above ground level. Tubers can be dug up as required, with the others being left in the ground. However, they must be protected from frost so it is worth covering them with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking.

Second cropping potatoes can be lifted up to Christmas time. However, leaving them in the ground for this length of time does make them more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm).

To purchase Seed Potatoes visit http://www.thompson-morgan.com